Stitch Something | Behind The Stitch | Episode 2 | Single Crochet
- Feather Charm
- Jun 9
- 10 min read
Hello Everyone!
I’m finally making this blog post! We’re finally here. We’re finally following up on this 2-year-old video! If you haven’t checked it out already, go and visit my YouTube channel, there, you’ll find my “Behind The Stitch” series where I teach you how to crochet. Here I teach you the very basics of crochet, as well as some theory or technical things that you should know, as you progress on your crochet journey. So, let’s take a look. I suggest you watch the video first, to get an overall idea of how to make a single crochet, and if you still want a deeper understanding, keep reading this post.
So, if you’ve seen the video (or even if you haven’t), let’s take a step-by-step look at how to make a single crochet, as well as learn what gauge really means. Oh, one more thing! Before you do, remember to check out the first episode of the series, which tells you all about how to create a chain and everything you need to know about yarn tension.
Ok, now let’s get started.
First Off, The Abbreviation
As with my previous video, let’s first learn what the abbreviation for the single crochet is, as well as some other abbreviations you might come across in a crochet pattern. So, again, if you’ve read the post for the previous episode, you’d have seen me talk about the different abbreviations designers make. I would have written something like “SC 20“ or “20 SC”. Well, like I said in that post, it means “make 20 Single Crochets”. So, the abbreviation for a single crochet is…
SC
And like I said in the video, SC is literally the initials for single crochet. Easy right? Ok, let’s move on to another abbreviation you would have seen in a pattern. I’ve already mentioned this in my previous post, but it’s always a good idea to revisit this. Sometimes, designers include the full description, but most of the time, you’ll find it abbreviated. What I’m talking about is the move to “yarn over”, this just means you need to wrap the yarn around your hook. The abbreviation for this is…
YO
As I said in the video, it’s not the pattern’s designer greeting you with a “Yo!”, it just means, yarn over. Simple.
Now, Let’s Get To The Nitty Gritty, How To Make A Single Crochet
So, we know what the abbreviation is, let’s stop talking and start making a single crochet. First, you’re going to need a foundation chain (see, this is why you need to watch the previous episode or read my previous blog post!). Here, I’ll start with a chain of 20, or Ch20.
Now, be mindful, twenty chains isn’t going to give me 20 single crochet, that’s because we skip the 20th chain…the one I’m pointing to in this picture.
Instead, we’ll be making the single crochet in the next stitch along.
Why do we do this? It’s because, if we make a single crochet in the same chain as the one we just finished, we’re not going to pull up another loop in on the hook. Instead, what this does is make your current loop longer, and twist around the hook.
Do you see the difference? That’s why we start in the next chain along.
Let’s Pause For A Second!
The way I’m inserting my hook in this chain is the standard beginner’s way of doing so, there are some techniques out there that actually change this up, where instead of inserting the hook in the V-shape, you actually insert it in the loop at the back.
This is actually a little more advanced, and I'll eventually show you what this does, and some of the more advanced techniques as well, but for now, stick with me, keep practicing, and master the basics first, before tackling other techniques.
Ok, so back to what I was saying, you can insert the hook above the loop in the back, to help when making a piece that needs to be joined with another later…
Or insert the hook below the loop in the back, to provide a sturdier foundation for the single crochet.
Now, We Need To Yarn Over!
Yep, you’ve guessed it, we are going to wrap the yarn around the hook, so it should look like it has “3 loops”: the original loop your hook had, when you finished the foundation chain, the 19th chain on the foundation chain, and the wrapped yarn you just made.
Now, you’re going to pull that first loop through the chain you just inserted your hook (2nd loop).
Awesome! Now you should have 2 loops on your hook.
You’re doing great guys, we’re halfway there!
The next thing you’re going to do, is yarn over again (see what I did there?).
Now, instead of pulling that yarn loop through 1 loop, this time, you’re going to pull through both loops.
Et voila! Your first single crochet!
The rest, as they say, is history. Now all you need to do is repeat that in the next chain along, until you’ve reached the end.
Ok, Great! How Do I Get Onto The Next Row?
That’s easy, you just flip your work, so now you’re looking at the back side.
Now, you need to chain 1 (CH1), and in the last single crochet you made, you’re going to make the first single crochet of your new row.
What I mean is, you’re going to insert your hook through the back of the previous single crochet (SC), or “stitch” (ST), not through the top.
Basically, insert your hook below the V-shape of the stitch, not through it.
Now, let’s take this slowly.
First, insert the hook into the gap at the back of the previous single crochet, like this…
Yarn over (YO). You should have 3 loops on your hook, like with the first single crochet we did.
Pull the yarn through the single crochet (SC) or stitch (ST). Now you should have 2 loops.
Yarn over (YO) again. 3 Loops again.
And pull the yarn through the last 2 loops.
And there you go! Your first single crochet in the next row.
Why Is Making A Single Crochet In A Row Different From When You Start?
That is a topic we’ll discuss in the next lesson, but essentially, we’re talking about “turning chains” here. So, you know how we made 1 chain at the start of the row, this helps keep the tension even throughout the project. If you didn’t make a chain, it would make things either too tight, or when you’re joining the project with another piece, it could make it difficult to join them together, but like I said, that’s a different lesson, for another day.
For now, just know that when you’re making a single crochet in a row, you don’t have the problem of extending the loop on your hook, because you’re not going through the top of the previous single crochet (or now, in this case, the previous “stitch”), you’re going through the back of it.
What About The Other Stitches, Can You Single Crochet Through Those Too?
Yes, it’s the same concept. You just need to insert your hook under the V-shape of the stitch. For example, like with a Double Crochet (which we’ll get to soon), all you need to do is find the gap at the back of the stitch, and make the single crochet like normal.
The same goes for the other stitches, like the half double crochet, the treble crochet, and even the double treble crochet. Just be mindful, some of these stitches will be very long, so it can be finnicky to hold. If that’s the case, hold your project closer to you, and keep things tight. What I mean is, if you find your weave hand holding a part of the project that’s too far away from the stitch you need to crochet into, change your hand’s position, so it’s much closer. Don’t go too far, or you’ll find yourself struggling to find the right gap, because the project is so floppy. Keep it close, keep it tight…that’s not a euphemism!
Be Warned About Chain Spaces And Working In Chains.
Now, there are a couple of things to remember, when working with chains and chain spaces. So, in the previous video, I showed you what a chain space (CH-Space or CH-Sp) is. I won’t explain it again, but there will be times in your crochet patterns (particularly lacy types or when you’re making buttonholes) where you will need to either crochet in the chain space (CH-Space or CH-Sp) or in the actual chains.
You’ll need to read the pattern carefully at this point. If a pattern tells you to crochet in the chain (CH), then you need to crochet in the chain.
If the pattern tells you to crochet in the chain space (CH-Space or CH-Sp), then you need to crochet in the chain space, that is under the chain.
Can you see the difference?
Have a go at working in chain spaces (CH-Space or CH-Sp) and and in chains (CH). You’ll find that working in chains (CH) is much harder than working in chain spaces (CH-Space or (CH-Sp).
Time To Understand Gauge
More often than not, patterns will include a “gauge” at the beginning of their instructions. This is very important in many patterns, especially for clothes and other wearable accessories. The reason this is included is because it helps determine the yarn tension you need to be working with.
Let’s break this down.
Let’s say you’re working on a sweater that you want to wear for winter, and let’s say you just picked up the standard ball of yarn, and a standard looking crochet hook. Now, you’ve taken a look at the pattern and have made some good progress through the pattern, but something doesn’t look right. It’s too small to wear. You look back at the pattern, counted every row and every stitch, and it’s all correct, but somehow, it just doesn’t fit. That’s where the gauge comes in.
Normally, at the beginning of the pattern, the gauge tells you how many stitches or how many repeats of your pattern should fit in a certain measure of length and width. This is usually going to be a square of either 10cm or 4 inches; some patterns might measure differently, but the rule of thumb is usually 10cm or 4 inches.
So, for example, if you’re working on a pattern that tells you that the gauge is 12 stitches (12 STS) and 14 rows, that means you need to make a patch of 12 stitches and 14 rows. Once you do that, you need to measure it, and make sure it is within the 10cm/4inches square. You can do this with a standard ruler, or you can be fancy and grab yourself a knitter’s ruler (or in this case a crocheter’s ruler).
If the pattern fits within the 10cm/4inches square, then you’re golden, and you can carry on with the project as normal.
However, if the stitches don’t quite fit, say they are too big or they’re too small, then you’ll need to adjust a few things.
First, look at the yarn you’re using. If the weight or the size of the yarn is not the same as what the pattern recommends, then you need to change it. So, say for example, you chose to use chunky yarn, instead of the DK size your pattern requires, then your problem is pretty obvious, you’ll need to swap the chunky yarn for the DK size. If, on the other hand, you’re using cotton yarn, and the pattern asks for Worsted, then you’re going to need to size up, and use the Worsted size.
If you do that, and the stitches still don’t seem to match the gauge, then it can be a problem of tension. To start, check that the hook you’re using is the correct size, for the yarn and the pattern, again, this is usually listed at the beginning of a pattern, under “materials”. Once you have the right hook, check the gauge again.
If the pattern still isn’t the right size, then it’s your tension. I told you last episode that the way you weave your yarn around your hand controls the tension of your project. If it’s too loose, your pattern will end up being very big and very gappy, if it’s too tight, then you’re going to have very tight and very stiff stitches. This part of the check is going to be a little difficult, because it depends on what works for you, how you can achieve the right tension.
Essentially, this part is going to be a lot of trial and error, and it can get tedious, tiring, and overall frustrating, but once you understand what the perfect tension for you is, you can finally start cracking on with the pattern. It’s going to take a lot of time, patience and maybe a few calming tea breaks, before you get to where you need to be, but in the end, it will be worth it. After all, it means you get a new blanket, sweater, pair of socks, gloves, or even a new top. So, keep persevering, and don’t let your impatience stop you from making that beautiful gown you saw on TikTok!
We Finally Made It!
Phew! That was a lot of explanations and instructions, but if you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You now know how to make a single crochet! You’re ready to take on the crochet world! Well…maybe not quite yet, there are still a few more basic things to learn, before you tackle a complicated pattern like a sweater. However, if you keep practicing, you might just be able to make a scarf, or maybe some quilt squares.
If you’re feeling a little daring, then try this out:
Materials
1 or 2 balls of DK Yarn
4mm crochet hook
Gauge
16sts and 18 rows to approx. 10cm/4inches square
Instructions
To start, make a foundation chain of 49.
Row 1: Ch1, SC in 2nd Ch from hook (you got this, guys! Remember, it’s not the chain your hook had just finished, it’s the one next to it). SC in the next 47sts. Ch 1, turn. (48 SC in row)
Row 2: SC in same St as Ch 1. SC in the next 47sts. Ch 1, turn (48 SC in row)
Row 3 – End (up to you how long you want your scarf!): Repeat Row 2 until satisfied. Fasten off and weave in ends (we’ll get to this lesson later).
How did you guys do? Do you have a new awesome scarf? I hope you do. If not, keep trying, and remember, if you don’t like the way it looks, you can always undo the project and start again. It’s that easy.
Well, that’s it from me today, I’m going to go off and make another one of these tutorials, for the YouTube Channel. In the meantime, as for you guys, keep practicing, and don’t forget to like, subscribe, comment, share and follow me, here on Feather’s Charm, on my YouTube Channel, on my social media channels, and on Patreon. Your support really helps me make more content like this, for you guys.
And as always, be kind, be creative, and be unique.
I’ll see you later!
Feather, out!
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